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Everyone experiences this, especially film photographers: You are out walking with your camera and you come upon something that is absolutely beautiful. Since you have your camera with you, you take a photo, or a dozen, or 40. When you get back home, you find that what you shot does not match what you saw at all. The camera does not work at all like your eye and your brain. Your brain INTERPRETS things and that is how you see them. For example, you might see a dilapidated cabin in the middle of a field and completely miss the trash heap in the foreground. You were so enraptured by the cabin that you developed a sort of tunnel vision. You might see a sort of soft glow around your girlfriend that isn't really there. The list goes on and on. Your brain enhances the appearance of things you like and ignores things it regards as extraneous or unpleasant. Your camera only captures the literal truth, even when you don't want it to. The image you captured looks nothing like as beautiful as what you saw and THAT is what you wanted to photograph.
What you have to do is carefully examine what is in front of you, breaking all the elements down, then try to figure out how to shoot something that resembles your first impression (what you remember, rather than what is in front of you). It can be done, film or digital, but it is not easy and it is not at all basic photography; it is decidedly advanced. There are a great variety of techniques for doing this and many of them are very old -- but not a whole lot has been written about many of them other than dodging and burning. If you can figure out how and when to use just half a dozen techniques, that puts you way ahead of most photographers. You can then shoot things that they can't.
Here are a few advanced techniques:
Vignetting (white outline)
Reverse vignetting (black outline)
Sabatier
Double printing
Photomontage
Soft focus/glow
Texture screening
Hand coloring
Tinting
Negative stacking
Double exposure
Toning
Split toning
Split contrast filtering
With all of these techniques, it is not a matter of either do it or don't, there are degrees to which you can do them.
Incidentally, vignetting and/or reverse vignetting will give you that tunnel vision effect you had when you first saw that cabin, and soft focus will give your girlfriend back her glow. Split contrast filtering adjusts the contrast on each of three individual layers of photographic emulsion, independently of one another. Double printing, negative stacking, double exposure and photomontage are all different ways of getting something into your photo that you only imagined was there. Toning and split toning give you color shifts (subtle or dramatic). Hand coloring (with translucent oil paints) concentrates the viewer's attention on specific details, or adds a surrealistic effect. After a while, you brain will start interpreting all colors of light that are not pretty damned obvious as white. For example, early morning sunlight is usually more blue than white, but you won't see it that way unless you are looking for it. The blue shows up mostly in shadows. Your camera does not interpret; it just shows you what's there, whether you saw it or not. Your camera has a color balance control that can make those blue shadows the "right" color, or you can leave them as is but you have to learn to really SEE what you are looking at in order to have the ability to make that decision. Incidentally, those are just a few techniques listed above. There are many more than I can possibly write about.
What you have to do is carefully examine what is in front of you, breaking all the elements down, then try to figure out how to shoot something that resembles your first impression (what you remember, rather than what is in front of you). It can be done, film or digital, but it is not easy and it is not at all basic photography; it is decidedly advanced. There are a great variety of techniques for doing this and many of them are very old -- but not a whole lot has been written about many of them other than dodging and burning. If you can figure out how and when to use just half a dozen techniques, that puts you way ahead of most photographers. You can then shoot things that they can't.
Here are a few advanced techniques:
Vignetting (white outline)
Reverse vignetting (black outline)
Sabatier
Double printing
Photomontage
Soft focus/glow
Texture screening
Hand coloring
Tinting
Negative stacking
Double exposure
Toning
Split toning
Split contrast filtering
With all of these techniques, it is not a matter of either do it or don't, there are degrees to which you can do them.
Incidentally, vignetting and/or reverse vignetting will give you that tunnel vision effect you had when you first saw that cabin, and soft focus will give your girlfriend back her glow. Split contrast filtering adjusts the contrast on each of three individual layers of photographic emulsion, independently of one another. Double printing, negative stacking, double exposure and photomontage are all different ways of getting something into your photo that you only imagined was there. Toning and split toning give you color shifts (subtle or dramatic). Hand coloring (with translucent oil paints) concentrates the viewer's attention on specific details, or adds a surrealistic effect. After a while, you brain will start interpreting all colors of light that are not pretty damned obvious as white. For example, early morning sunlight is usually more blue than white, but you won't see it that way unless you are looking for it. The blue shows up mostly in shadows. Your camera does not interpret; it just shows you what's there, whether you saw it or not. Your camera has a color balance control that can make those blue shadows the "right" color, or you can leave them as is but you have to learn to really SEE what you are looking at in order to have the ability to make that decision. Incidentally, those are just a few techniques listed above. There are many more than I can possibly write about.
My Hands
Mine are the hands of your best friend, filled with love for you. Mine are the hands that will be holding yours on our wedding day, when we promise to love each other today, tomorrow and forever. Mine are the hands that will always be there to lend you strength and comfort when you need it. Mine are the hands that, even when wrinkled and aged, will still be reaching for yours, offering undiminished tenderness with their touch. These are my hands, and yours.
Vintage Camera Restoration - Welta Perle
The easiest way I can think of to explain how to restore a vintage camera is to restore one, photographing each step in the restoration process. To that end, I went on eBay and bought a Welta Perle that was in pretty bad shape, but that didn't look like it would be hopeless. Here are a few of the "before" photos, detailing the damage: Okay, now that I have a fairly good idea what is wrong with it, I can start making repairs. It will be a beautiful and fully functioning camera when I am done. First, I am going to clean the glass (lenses and viewfinder). To do this, I am going to use distilled water (to remove general crud), a 50/50 mix of ammonia and hydrogen peroxide (to kill and remove fungus), and naphtha (lighter fluid) to remove grease and oil. I'll apply each solvent, in turn, with cotton swabs and remove it with them too. I'll put t on with a wet end and then mop it up with the dry end. I'll twist each swab slowly, so it lifts dirt away from the glass instead of rubbing
Someone poisoned my wife's dog last night.
We were talking and we were happy. Then she heard her dog making weird noises. He was staggering around and fell down. She went to check on him. He started bleeding from every orfice. Someone had poisoned him with rat poison (warfarin, which causes massive internal bleeding). His insides pretty much liquified. He was in great pain and must have been like that for some time before she found him. He died quickly after that, with my wife petting him. It takes a very special kind of asshole to do that to a dog.
Advanced darkroom techniques -- grain manipulation
There is a film called T-Max 100 and it is incredibly sensitive to agitation and temperature during development, as well as to the choice of developing agents. If you develop it in T-Max developer, in cold water, with very gentle agitation, it will give you slick, smooth, almost grainless images. Develop it in D-76, in warm water and shake it hard though, and you get grain from hell. This does NOT mean that you should always use T-Max in cold water and baby it. What this means is that you have another tool that you can use when deciding what kind of image you want to make. You can make its sensitivity work for you. If you like surrealism, for example, you can boost the contrast and really shake it and you will get an image that almost looks like a pointillist painting or drawing (pointillism is what happens when you get a fine point pen and do a drawing made up of tiny dots). This is an example: Here's another: With less contrast, you get something like this: The trick is to
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This is a great reminder to the basics of photography. Thanks for sharing it...