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©2005-2009 `FallisPhoto
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Submitted: October 8, 2005
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In the photography forum, I've been seeing some threads on lens cleaning that recommend lens tissues. This is a cheap and convenient way to do it, but it is also risky. Tissues trap dust and grit between lens and tissue and it is all too easy to scratch the lenses. Some lens tissues, meant for eyeglasses, are actually mildly abrasive and can scratch coated lenses with no help from trapped grit. Microfiber lens cloths are safer, but still not 100% safe. So how do you do it?

Well, first you go over it with a blower and lens brush, to remove as much grit as possible.

Next you are going to need some solvents. Commonly used solvents used in camera restoration (and lens cleaning) are:
1. denatured alcohol, used to remove tar (from cigarettes, or pine pollen) and detriorated light seal material (sometimes found stuck to rear lens elements). Do NOT use rubbing alcohol; it will work, but it is not a benign solvent and it can attack some balsam cements used to glue lens elements together.
2. naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid), used to remove grease and oils (naphtha is REALLY good for fingerprints).
3. distilled water, used to remove everything else.

These are all benign and won't harm your camera if you just keep them out of the electronics and don't actually SOAK the camera in them.

4. One other special solvent: a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, used to kill and remove lens fungus.

Then you get a big box of Q-tip cotton swabs. Dampen a swab with your solvent of choice, and start in the center of the lens, working outward. A little solvent goes a long way, so you want your swab to be damp, not wet. Use gentle pressure, not much more than the weight of the Q-tip. Don't scrub, but let the solvent do the work. Twist the swab as you go, so that a fresh surface is kept in contact with the lens and any grit is lifted away from the glass, not rubbed against it. You'll go through quite a few Q-tips. I generally go over my lenses two or three times with each solvent.

When you use the naphtha, you may notice a haze forming on your lens as it dries. Don't panic; this is a GOOD thing. The haze is oil and grease that has been hydrolized (made water soluable). The naphtha itself leaves no residue. When you go over it with the distilled water, it will remove the haze.
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This is great. I'm gonna fave it so I'll always be able to have a link to it.

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OfflinePixel.com [link]
Great :thumbsup:

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What are you but my reflection?
agreed. good idea OfflinePixel . Thanks FallisPhoto!!
Hey thanks for the tips. I don't clean photo lenses all that much, but I do occasional bits of maintenance on equipment that has lenses. I stumbled across this and I think it may come in handy. :)
Can't see how it could hurt.

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I am a trained professional. Don't try this at home.
Another great tip, keep em coming...Ah, I meant Thank you
Hmm, what's rubbing alcohol..?

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Nuttu nuri, onni oekei. :floating:
There are many types of alcohol and they alol have different chemical properties. Rubbing alcohol is also known as isopropyl alcohol. It is a petroleum based secondary alcohol and is made by attacking phenol with an acid. It is commonly sold in drugstores and supermarkets.

What you want is denatured ethyl alcohol. Denatured alcohol is sold in hardware stores and is distilled from fermented grain. During the denaturing process, methanol (a poisonous type of alcohol) is added to prevent people from drinking it.

Denatured alcohol is a relatively benign solvent. It has no effect on glass, plastic, or metal. You do have to watch it around paint if the exposure is prolonged and it can dissolve most inks very rapidly. It is also effective against tar. The trick here is that it not be TOO effective against tar (as is isopropyl alcohol). The cements used by some manufacturers (to attach lens elements together) are balsam cements (made in part from the sap of balsam trees). The foam light seals in cameras are coal tar based, so it is good for cleaning up the sticky residue from deteriorated light seals. It evaporates completely, leaving nothing of itself behind.

In a pinch, you can use (unflavored) vodka as a substitute for denatured alcohol. Vodka is made from distilled ethyl alcohol (that has not been denatured) and from distilled water. It is chemically pure enough that it won't cause a problem with residues.

Isopropyl alcohol has two major problems when used as a solvent in cleaning cameras.

1. It is commercially sold as 70% or 90% alcohol, and so has many trace elements that will leave a residue on your lens of god-knows-what. Often some of these are petroleum based and they are not water-soluable (you can't clean the residue off with water).
2. It is much more agressive against some kinds of tars and is more likely to cause damage to the balsam cements used by some manufacturers to attach lens elements to one another.

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I am a trained professional. Don't try this at home.
just bought my first camera yesterday.
this is exactly what i need now :D

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never trust anything somebody in real life says about the internet and vice versa
If it is an older camera, you might be interested in reading this too: [link] As well as my "Useful photography links" journal entries (several links in there for restoration materials).

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I am a trained professional. Don't try this at home.

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