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About Deviant Artist Senior Member Charles S. FallisMale/United States Recent Activity
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Yashica Mat LM -- left side by FallisPhoto
Yashica Mat LM -- left side
This is a Yashica Mat LM, a twin lens reflex camera (TLR). The top lens is used for focusing and the bottom lens takes the photo. When you focus it, the front plate of the camera, holding both lenses, moves in and out. You look into a big ground glass viewfinder in the top and stop when the image is in focus. The LM stands for light meter. This one is an extreme rarity, because the selenium cell light meter still works (although I am not sure about the accuracy of a very old meter powered by a selenium cell -- they usually have a ten year lifespan and this is from the 60s). It has a very sharp Yashinon lens and a Copal SV shutter. The shutter speeds are from 1 to 1/500th second plus B. The f/stops go from f/3.5 to f/32. Everything works as it is supposed to, including the self-timer. It has been releathered with something called "Griptac," a textured vulcanized rubber camera covering that is supposed to give you a better grip. Originally, it came with a vinyl covering. The original covering was brittle and had broken off in one corner of the front plate.
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Yashica Mat LM -- right side by FallisPhoto
Yashica Mat LM -- right side
This is a Yashica Mat LM, a twin lens reflex camera (TLR). The top lens is used for focusing and the bottom lens takes the photo. When you focus it, the front plate of the camera, holding both lenses, moves in and out. You look into a big ground glass viewfinder in the top and stop when the image is in focus. This one is an extreme rarity, because the selenium cell light meter still works (although I am not sure about the accuracy of a very old meter powered by a selenium cell -- they usually have a ten year lifespan and this is from the 60s). It has a very sharp Yashinon lens and a Copal SV shutter. The shutter speeds are from 1 to 1/500th second plus B. The f/stops go from f/3.5 to f/32. Everything works as it is supposed to, including the self-timer. It has been releathered with something called "Griptac," a textured vulcanized rubber camera covering that is supposed to give you a better grip. Originally, it came with a vinyl covering. The original covering was brittle and had broken off in one corner of the front plate.
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Another Blue Ciro-Flex by FallisPhoto
Another Blue Ciro-Flex
Well, I did another piece of camera porn. Morgan Sparks (of Camera Leather) sent me two sets of leathers for the last one I did, because "so many people make a mess of it the first time." Well, it was very far from being my first time and so I had one left over. I thought I might as well do another one. I have had a couple of dozen of these and I don't need another one, so this one is up for sale now on eBay: tinyurl.com/o9h5q2r It has been cleaned, lubricated, adjusted, repainted, everything works right, and it has been polished within an inch of its life. Oh, and it takes 6x6cm negatives on readily available 120 film.
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deviantID

FallisPhoto
Charles S. Fallis
Artist
United States
Current Residence: darkroom
Favourite photographer: Jerry Uelsmann and J.K Potter
Favourite style of art: surreal nudes (darkroom manipulations)
Personal Quote: "Great photos are created, not captured." -- Ansel Adams
Interests
Apertures and f/stops are not quite the same thing. An aperture is the size of the hole that the light passes through in order to expose the film. It is not complicated. f/stops are a set of standardized numbers used in mathematical formulas that are used to determine the size of the aperture. The "f" in f/stop is the focal length of the lens. Thus, if you have a 22mm lens, and you are shooting at f/2, then 22/2 = 11mm, which is the size of the aperture. If you are shooting at f/22, then 22/22 = 1mm, which will be the size of the aperture. Each progressive aperture, going from the largest number (let's say 22) to the smallest (let's say 2) admits twice the light into the camera that the preceding number does.

Shutter speeds are set up the same way. Starting from the fastest shutter speed (let's say 1/1000th second) and going to the slowest (let's say 30 seconds; but there really isn't a limit to how slow you can go -- some people with film cameras have used shutter speeds of a year or more), each progressive shutter speed admits twice the light into the camera as the preceding one.

Because they are set up this way, it allows you to use what are called "equivalent exposures." Let's say that your camera's meter is recommending an exposure of 1/125th second at f/11. Well, you decide that you want a little less depth of field than this. Depth of field is what the aperture controls and it is the amount of space in front of and behind the subject of the photo that will be in focus. To get less depth of field, you'd switch from f/11 to f/8; this admits twice as much light into the camera and without making an adjustment, your photo will be overexposed. To compensate for this, you switch from 1/125th second to 1/250th second, reducing the light by half (back to its previous level). Now you have an equivalent exposure that has the depth of field that you want. Simple.

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:iconjustinmlindner:
JustinMLindner Featured By Owner Oct 13, 2014  Hobbyist Photographer
I followed you on ebay so I can keep an eye on what cameras you have available.  The 3 on there now look pretty cool, definitely have an antique look to them 
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:iconfallisphoto:
FallisPhoto Featured By Owner Oct 13, 2014
Four of them are on there now. All are Kodak Retinas and all of them date from the very early 40 and 50s (yes, at least one was made in Nazi Germany). Three of them are rangefinders and one is a ranging camera. A rangefinder tells you the distance to the subject very precisely. Rangefinders focus more precisely than any other kind of camera. With a ranging camera, you don't get that. You estimate the distance to the subject and rely on depth of field (area in front of and behind the subject that is in reasonably sharp focus) to compensate for error. Anyway, those are vintage, not antique. Antiques are 100+ years old (I have a few).
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:iconjustinmlindner:
JustinMLindner Featured By Owner Oct 13, 2014  Hobbyist Photographer
oh I only saw 3.  The Nazi Germany thing doesn't phase me, I'd love to get my hands on a German Mauser from that era so I really don't mind. they had good engineers so I don't feel bad about wanting stuff they built. 

would those work for school? 
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:iconfallisphoto:
FallisPhoto Featured By Owner Oct 13, 2014
It would depend on what the course requirements are. Those are rangefinder cameras. If the course requirements say you have to have an SLR, as some do, then they won't work.

Oh hell,  just remembered that one of them, the Kodak Retina Reflex III, is an SLR (of sorts). Technically, it would fulfill your course requirements, but it would be way behind the capabilities of every other camera in the class. You really want a Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Yashica, Minolta, Olympus or something similar if you are taking this course seriously.
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(1 Reply)
:icontlo-photography:
TLO-Photography Featured By Owner Aug 26, 2014  Hobbyist Photographer
Happy Birthday Charles!! :D
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:iconfallisphoto:
FallisPhoto Featured By Owner Aug 26, 2014
Thank you, I guess. I wasn't really looking forward to 60 though.
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:icontlo-photography:
TLO-Photography Featured By Owner Aug 26, 2014  Hobbyist Photographer
You can't stop time! Enjoy every day! :D
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:iconfallisphoto:
FallisPhoto Featured By Owner Aug 26, 2014
Well, I am on the right side of the grass still, at least for a little while longer.
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(1 Reply)
:iconanorexianevrosa:
anorexianevrosa Featured By Owner Aug 26, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
Airborne Happy Birthday dear!Airborne I love deviantART! 
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:iconfallisphoto:
FallisPhoto Featured By Owner Aug 26, 2014
Oh, God. Not another one. Well, thanks, I guess.
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