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About Deviant Artist Senior Member Charles S. FallisMale/United States Recent Activity
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FallisPhoto
Charles S. Fallis
Artist
United States
Current Residence: darkroom
Favourite photographer: Jerry Uelsmann and J.K Potter
Favourite style of art: surreal nudes (darkroom manipulations)
Personal Quote: "Great photos are created, not captured." -- Ansel Adams
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When a digital camera leaves the factory, it is set in such a way that it captures the most detail possible. Unfortunately, this means it is set for very low contrast, low saturation and it will usually be too bright. There are reasons for this.

1. It is set too bright because the rule of thumb for capturing detail with a device that captures a positive image (slide film, Polaroid and digital cameras) is to shoot for the highlights and develop for the shadows. The opposite holds true for negative images. This means that, if it is set too bright, it exposes the image so that the zone 10 areas (whites and highlights) will reveal detail when the photo is darkened in editing.

2. The contrast is set low so that the detail in the dark and light areas will be visible, even though it isn't if you are looking at it with your eyes through the viewfinder. The dark and white areas will be too grey.

3. The saturation is set low because rich dark colors hide detail, like the texture in cloth.

In order to bring it back to what it looked like when you were seeing it in the viewfinder, you have to adjust at least these three things, and that's at minimum. If you don't, your colors will look washed out, the whole photo will look like you are looking at it through a film of milk and it will look horribly flat (two-dimensional). You really need those dark shadows and dark colors in order to achieve the illusion of three dimensions (contour and depth). Thus you adjust these things and find the best compromise between detail and depth. Only then will your photos look their best.

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:icontheycallme-g:
TheyCallMe-G Mar 17, 2014  Hobbyist Photographer
I have very limited experience with film and FD lenses specifically...I'm set on the Kodak Portra 400 but the lenses are FD mounts and built like tanks.  Question is, most of the Canon A-1 I see comes with a 50mm f/1.8.  Excuse the typos, I'm drinking.  How do those lenses go for portraits?  Do they act like the EF 50mm f/1.8?  Random questions but as I said, I'm drinking lol..
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:iconfallisphoto:
In 35mm cameras, the lenses of choice for portraits are 135mm or 100mm for classic head and shoulders portraits. The 50mm good is for groups and for full figure (head to knees or to feet) portraits or for environmental portraits (person in context with the immediate environment). It works well for nudes/figure studies too.
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:icontheycallme-g:
TheyCallMe-G Mar 18, 2014  Hobbyist Photographer
Oh did Essex camera services go out of business?  I'm trying to find their website but I see results from google saying their out of business.  Can you confirm this?
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:iconmorexod:
morexod Jan 25, 2014  Hobbyist Photographer
awesome comments you left on forum :D :D :D
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:iconfallisphoto:
Thank you. Like I said, in another thread, I pretty much live in left field.
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:iconreenie-la:
Reenie-La Jan 14, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
I wanted to stop by and thank you for all the comments and tips on how to take better photos. :)
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:iconfallisphoto:
You're welcome.
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:icontheuniquegeek:
TheUniqueGeek Jan 12, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
Sorry I closed my tread before I got to reply! But here's my response:

"I usually know when possible virus-supporting things are around, so I don't really need anti-virus software. It is a good idea though."
Reply
:iconfallisphoto:
Pretty much anything on the internet, posted by a guy with an infected computer, that you download, including email, can support a virus.
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